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Travels in Russia

KLM Rocks Across Europe!
Santa Claus in Moscow
Television Is a Time Suck
The Reality of Irrelevance
Salute Mayor Luzhkov
Impeachment Happens
I Am Not The Only One...
I'm Back! Did Ya Miss Me?
Chechnya Burning
Weddings in Winter
The Jews Are Here!
Gailyn Goes to Town
Is There a Central Bank?
Santa Barbara is Real
Nick's Thanksgiving in Russia
Den' Rozhdeniya = Birthdays
Those Crazy Expats
It's Just a Few Drops of Vodka...
Elections Are Always Rigged
The Blind Leading the Blind
Good Russian Grooms
You Say 'Boris Berezovskiy' Fast
Too Cold to Care!
Russian Oil Towns
Sneaky Siberian Tigers
Which Way is St Peterburg?
Where am I again? Oh, yeah...
I Love Me Some Vodka
It's a Gosorg Halloween
Hunger Comes to Us All
Why Don't They Just Learn English?!
Post-Crisis, Life Goes On
Is Yeltsin 'The Man'?
Murmansk - Brrrr!
Taganka Hides Her Secrects
These are Communists
It's a Power Vaccum
The Commies are Back
Propaganda is Good for You
You Better Buy Russian!
Sex Ed Soviet Style
Party over, oops outta time!
Russian Healthcare in Moscow
What Russian Financial Crisis?
YE Prices in Russia
The Hungry Duck
Russian Caviar Mafia
Magical Mushrooms
Shhhh! We're Bear Hunting
Soviet Street Scams
Bez Dollarov
A Koshka Konspiracy
On The Dacha
The Banking Implosion
Surviving Army Life
Shashleek is Steak on Steroids
Dacha Thinking
Beach Weekend
Dos Vedanya
Hello from Vladivostok
Equality Means Only She Works
Jogging is an Extreme Sport
Russians Have Reunions Too
My Folks in Massive Moscow
Better than Fireworks
Miners Are Real Men
The Russian Mafia is the Roof
No One Smiles in the CIS
One Year Anniversary
Russian Brides Rock
Laura is My St Pete Connection
Change is in the Wind
Chuck Norris' Beverly Hills Casino
The Expat Woman's Predicament
Street Food is Yummy!
Spring Flowers Make June Leavers
The Provinces Are Provincial
Ever Take an Elektrichka?
The English Invasion
Nuttin Like New Money
All Black is Russian Fashion
Easter Memories = Easter Dinner
Politics, Russian Style
Theresa Tries to Russify
I Go to Gay Clubs Worldwide
I Hide on Women's Day
New & Shiny: Nizhny Novgorod
Psst! Wanna job in Moscow?
Fili Park Has All the Bootlegs
Web Page Reactions
Take a Break at Dom Odaha
Expat Living in Moscow is Swank
Why Are You Remonting?
They Look Like Telephones...
In Need of a Decent Hairstylist
Smashing Bottles in Red Square

Readership

Russia, April 21, 1998

Rules Are Made to Break

What? You think people follow the rules here?

The Moscow Times, Tuesday, April 21, 1998

A Culture of Disobedience

By Jean MacKenzie

Nothing is certain in life, they say, except death and taxes. Well in Russia, even that truism is not necessarily so. Death, of course, is still a constant threat, but the taxman seems to be a very occasional and capricious presence.

"Russia is a much freer country than America," laughed a colleague of mine, Sasha. "We are free not to pay taxes, not to obey traffic laws. Not to obey laws at all, really." Sasha's robust cynicism is an odd fit with his background He did time in Can you read the sign?the old days for distributing samizdat, but this does not keep him from making a little money in the new Russia by working with the Communist Party.

The sign says, "No playing in the fountain."

Sasha was amused that foreigners, myself included, seemed to be taken in by the "pay taxes and sleep soundly" ad offensive launched on Russian television in the weeks before April 1. "Do you really think the sight of a bunch of clowns is going to scare a Russian into handing over his money?" he asked. "I tried to pay taxes once, the company I was working for insisted on it. But when I went to the tax office, they looked at me as if I were crazy."

When I first returned to Russia, in January, I loved the brightly colored billboards, with pictures of expensive cars, luxury boats, and exotic vacation locales. If you like to have a good time, learn to love paying taxes," ran the caption, in my very loose translation.

I had to laugh - I knew that campaign would never work. Then came the television spots, threatening taxdodging Russians with everything from impotence to prison. This seemed to have a bit more punch - although Russia's tax police have a long way to go before they have the dread cachet of, say, the U.S. Internal Revenue Service.

I'm not sure what the final figures were. Last I heard, President Boris Yeltsin was boasting that the number of Russians paying their proper taxes had quadrupled - to 5 million. In a country of 150 million, this did not seem too impressive, but 1 guess it's all relative.

But I must confess that I am a bit relieved that the Russian penchant for anarchy continues to flourish, This comes as no surprise to anyone who has spent more than a minute in a moving vehicle on the streets of Moscow. People who blithely ignore "do not enter" signs, drive on sidewalks, and park their cars in traffic lanes are unlikely to he cowed by a few regulations. Russians seem to have a healthy disrespect for the law, acquired over centuries of repression.

I think it is a self-protection mechanism that stemmed from a feeling that the law was so arbitrary that you had just as great a chance of getting into trouble whether you did anything bad or not.

Someone, I think it was Alexander Herzen, said that the severity of Russia's laws was compensated for by the fact that absolutely no one pays any attention to them. Herzen does not work for the tax police - he was a 19th century writer and Breaking rules and maybe their necks!philosopher. Ordinary Russians put it more simply. "If it's forbidden, but you really want it, then it's allowed." It sounds better in Russian, of course, as most things do.

Breaking the rules and mayble their necks!

This attitude may have stood the Russians in good stead in tsarist times, or during the harsh years of Soviet rule (aside from landing more than a few of them in prison, or worse), but it seems a poor premise for the development of a responsible, democratic society.

On the other hand, if we wanted a responsible, democratic society, we could all move to Switzerland. Herzen did. Of course, he was bored stiff, and set off for untidier pastures within a short time.

Perhaps this age-old reluctance to submit to law and order helps account for some of the brash, in-your-face quality of the new Russia. I sometimes get the feeling that the country is being run by school kids who have somehow gained access to the principal's office and are having a whale of a time with the loudspeaker and the cash box. I do not mean to suggest that the problems of a huge, powerful, cultured land like Russia can be boiled down to "Fast Times Ridgemont High."

And I am tired of people trying to explain Russia's glitches and excesses as adolescent growing pains. But if the past 1,000 year's are anything to go by, it will be quite a while before graduation.

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3 Comments

Rules are pointless. Most things sound better French, not in Russian. Russian sounds like you are swearing all the time. Traffic laws are there for your safety, and to make things go faster.

hello i think that Russian people are cool! Please send me a fir cap. Thank You
Anna

i agree with your ideas about people standing on bridges. i like your pictures that you have on your site on the this page on the web in my computer. (actually, it is the schools computer)

-kate

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